Sunday, January 09, 2005

Day 14

0630 GMT - We are up early to get a head start on getting the final packing done and getting the car packed for checkout at 10am. Power goes out early a number of times, and this is complicated by the scene outside the cottage. We have a special Christmas present...a white Christmas.



Another surprise awaits Eamon and Connor. In front of the fireplace are two bags from Santa, one for each of the boys. We thought Santa was going to only visit Seattle per our request so that we wouldn't have lots of presents to pack and bring home. He leaves a note telling the boys that they rest of their presents are on their way with him to Seattle now, but that he wanted them to have SOMETHING from him in Ireland. Eamon is VERY excited. To fight off the cold, and deal with the loss of power, we start up our last fire.



Despite the snow, the power outages and the rest, we manage to pack, load the car, get out of the cleaning people's way and settle up with Jim to be on our way by 1015. It is quite an adventure driving down the dirt road hill from the cottages to the main road over the Quiet Man Bridge. We yell goodbye to our sheep dog friend, we will miss him. To complicate matters, it begins to snow VERY heavily after we pass through Oughterard on the way to our hotel in Galway City. We keep our spirits up by listening to live Christmas morning mass on the radio. You can here all the babies crying throughout the service, and the war between the choir and the congregation makes for amusing musical interludes. We have no idea how to get to hotel, and only a street address to go by with a small map. Amy gets concerned and we stop at the first open Petrol station to ask directions. She gets nervous that she is going the wrong way, and we turn around, despite his directions, to find a nice lady, on herway back from church, where we should go. She gives us directions, and we end up right back where we turned around. We were two minutes from the hotel when we panicked.

1230 GMT - We eat some pub lunch at the hotel, sign up for Christmas dinner and relax for a short while in the hotel.



We call family in the states and wish everyone a Happy Christmas (they don't say Merry Christmas here in Ireland.) The phone is set up to deny you the ability to use it for internet, and I only brought a UK style modem cable...I don't have an RJ45 connector with me, and all the stores are closed. I end up going down to the lobby to use the 1 euro for 10 minute computer with internet access there. I FINALLY have my Sonics scores!!! They lost to Phoenix by a single basket, but then beat Denver, they are playing GREAT basketball.

1400 GMT - We decide to head out and visit St. Nicholas' Cathedral where Christopher Columbus was supposed to have prayed before leaving to find the "New World." Galway was once a Spanish city. Both the boys fall asleep while we are driving around the city, and Amy goes in alone. She decides not to disturb the people praying by taking any photos of the inside, but says it is stunning.



1830 GMT - We go downstairs to the restaurant for Christmas dinner. We finally learn why they are called Crackers. If you open the blasted things the right way a little piece of paper inside has a cap that pops and makes a loud cracking noise. We have a nice dinner, despite Eamon needing a clothes change in the middle when he soaks his clothes by knocking his water glass over.

2030 GMT - We all lie in our beds and watch a production of "Kiss Me Kate" on BBC. Eamon enjoys it but has LOTS of questions. Finally we turn it off after intermission and go to sleep.

Saturday, January 08, 2005

Day 13

I am back in the States again, and have regained access to the internet...Ireland was almost impossible to get internet access and when I did it was by far too expensive to handle images. I will pick up again with the posts, though now I will be a number of weeks behind.

0800 GMT - Today is Christmas Eve, and we still have presents to wrap, and prepratory tasks to take care of...it is not a day for much activity, other than wrapping, cleaning and packing. We have to be out of the cottage by 10 am tomorrow and on the road to Galway City.

1300 GMT - After getting a big chunk of packing done (being sure to leave room for the presents we unwrap tonight to make it in the bags!!!) we take a break and head to the Peacock Hotel for lunch at the quiet man pub. I look around the room at the pub, and all the faces look so familiar...it feels like a family reunion at the Dunphy's that we used to have every February when I was a kid. I start to realize how very Irish our family is genetically. Amy mentions a little later (not being privy to my thoughts) that she has realized how Irish I look having visited Ireland now. It seems not until I open my mouth to speak that I am marked as an American. Amy and I take turns with some last minute shopping at the gift store in the hotel. With the pressure of THE two gifts that I wanted to buy off my shoulders, I pick up a few more things for Amy. The lady at the counter is very sweet and she gives me a candy bar to give Eamon as a present tonight from her. We then swing next store to the hotel gas station and conveniance store to pick up some travel groceries and some Christmas sweets.

1600 GMT - After afternoon tea is completed, we fulfill our promise to Eamon to have present opening time between tea time and dinner. Here are the presents waiting through tea time to be opened.



Eamon seems to think this whole present thing is pretty darn cool...



By the time that tea time is over everyone is ready to get going on the presents...



Eamon unwraps a load of presents...he is very excited by his first which I picked out. It is an Egyptian archeology game which has all the treasures, dice and game pieces buried in some red mud like plaster and they have to be excavated to play the game with them. He also likes his traditional Feodog or Irish Tin Whistle.



Eamon is pretty helpful opening Connor's presents as well...



But honestly, Connor seems much happier playing with the paper and ribbons than looking at the presents that were in them.




Amy and Patrick get some smile bringing presents as well...



Amy's big presents are her tea cosy, hand knit hat from the Aran Islands that we never got to visit,



and a silver standing stone necklace (this is the one that I worked so hard to find.) I struggled since EVERY store we visited had silver jewelry, but they were just the same designs over and over again. I wanted to get Amy's from an individual crafts person or artist and understand what the piece meant to them. This standing stone (Amy is very interested in the standing stones, though we have only read about them and maybe seen some from a distance...) and it's enery theme really strikes me as a heart of what makes Ireland the special place that it is. For such a small island it has produced a huge global emigration impact which leaves Irish descendants still embracing their heritage while still being integrated in their new homelands.

1800 GMT - Amy makes dinner while Patrick and Eamon work on digging out some Egyptian treasures, Eamon is the famous archeologist and Patrick is his undergraduate student who gets to do all the work. Dinner is very nice, Eamon loves the carrot cake he picked out, or rather, he loves the cream cheese frosting on it that he eats leaving a big pile of cake and crumbs behind. Finally everyone is tired. The kids go to bed and Amy and Patrick try to finish up the packing to be ready for tomorrow's move. After we turn off the lights we look out the window to see that tomorrow will bring a special surprise for Eamon.

Wednesday, January 05, 2005

Day 12

0800 GMT - Amy is heartbroken, but gale force winds and poor weather make this a poor candidate for the Aran Islands again. We decide over breakfast to try for Westport in County Mayo. It is recommended by Jim, our host at the cottages and has a nice write up in the Frommers book as well. Amy is still sore from all the driving yesterday, so I decide to take the first leg today. It is another long drive and we head through some pretty country, though almost half the drive is the same as we did on the Kylemore Abbey trip. We see a huge and beautiful rainbow, and remembering Gate's pot of gold, we try to chase it, but again, it seems to elude us. One moment it is right a few feet in front of us, then it shifts into the lake (Laugh in gaelic)or up the hill. At one point we seem to drive right through the end of the rainbow, but it seems the leprechaun must have run with his gold to the OTHER end.




I get attacked as we are driving by some sheep dogs who are lying in wait. One of them leaps up from where he is lying and charges my front wheels... I am shocked and swerve to avoid hitting him. After the initial surprise, Amy and Eamon get quite a laugh about the attack sheep dogs.

1200 GMT - We arrive in Westport which is an adorable town. It should be a must on anyone's Ireland trip. It is as cute as Galway without the crowds. There is quite a bit of foot traffic about the shopping district with only two days left before Christmas, but nothing like the mobs we found in Galway City. I find a lot to park in, and actually get into a space where all four of us can get out. It is a heavy drizzle, but my shoulders and mid back are so sore from carrying Connor in the backpack all day yesterday, I have to put him in the stroller. We head to a pub that Amy saw while we were navigating the area looking for parking. Lunch is good and we are introduced to the Irish "cracker" tradition. They have these little wrapping paper twists on the place settings. In the center is a cardboard tube with little toy prizes in it. Eamon collects all of these and we read the jokes that are also kept in side. We don't get the "cracker" name yet.

1330 GMT - We leave the pub and Amy and Eamon head off down the alley away from all the stores, and I decide to keep my mouth shut and just tag along. Suddenly I come upon a little store called Westport Designs, and I have found the store where I will buy Amy's present. I shoo Amy and the boys along, and talk to the artist. He makes great jewelry, I love his work. He explains his inspiration and themes for a few pieces, but I am drawn to one in particular. He tells me that it is a standing stone, and the symbol on it is a linking of the three energies of the island, the sun, the ocean and the land. I know this is the right one...lucky me, it is all silver and costs less than 1/2 of the other pieces I had been looking at. Unfortunately, he wants cash, and I go off on an adventure to find a cash machine that will let me take out money! The first fails, but the second succeeds and I return to the shop where he has it all ready. He is so happy that I tell him he has made my week that he throws in some cool postcards with pictures shot by a friend of his as a bonus to send back to the states and make all our friends jealous. We are so bad about post cards, that I doubt they will get sent from here...

1500 GMT - We try in vain to find a cafe where Amy can nurse the baby, Eamon can have a snack and I can get on the internet. We are only able to satisfy two of those. Neither of the internet spots have food OR coffee or comfortable places to nurse and change a baby. I still don't know the score of the game, and it has been a week since I last posted! Eamon orders cold chocolate milk, which he does not drink. While he and Amy wait in line for the toilets, I try to let Connor have a sip. While I am trying to get the straw into his mouth, he grabs the cup and pours the whole mug in our laps. We are both soaked and the floor is as well. A nice man leaving the cafe sees the whole thing and returns to the counter to bring me some serviettes, and Amy sends the woman from behind the counter over with a big towel to mop up the mess. I however, have a huge soaking chocolate stain from my crotch to my ankles. Eamon thinks all of this is quite funny and starts chanting..."Dada peed his pants! Look Mom, dada wet his pants!" The only reason I am not marching around full of fury is that I finally have the gift I wanted to buy. We head home with Amy driving and once again leave her as the only person awake.




We have to stop at the gas station to buy some dinner, and this wakes up Connor who once more serenades us with his tale of woe the rest of the way home. Our friend is there to welcome us. Eamon and I head off to wrap presents, read a little Lemony Snickett and head off to bed. Tomorrow is Christmas Eve.

Thursday, December 30, 2004

Day 11

0800 GMT - It is another rainy day, and we decide to pass, once more, on the Aran Islands, much to Amy's disappointment. After some deliberation we decide to hit Galway City today.

1100 GMT - We have a little trouble actually getting into Galway City...we should have just followed the signs to City Center, but I was trying to find a specific street, which is a futile effort when your maps leave a huge gap right where you need to make your connection. We find our road finally, and it leads us to an adorable little shopping area. We pull into a parking area right next to the Jury's Inn. We are shocked by the VERY limited space in the garage. Amy makes a twenty-five point turn to get up the first ramp to level 1 (remember, we waived the insurance....!). After several more ramps, now more easily negotiated as the sudden appearance and need for wide turns at entry are no longer a surprise. Amy executes another twenty-five point turn to back into the ONLY space we are able to find, but only after Eamon and I clear out of the car since we will never get the passenger doors open from this space. We pack Connor into the backpack and head out into the walking streets which are littered with shops, pubs and restaurants. We see a pub named Riordan's which is Eamon's friend Lily's last name.



We are unable to decide whether we should eat or shop...decide finally to eat and then end up in stores shopping while we try to find a place to eat. We go into a pub, and just as suddenly exit it, something about too much of a place for grownups. We walk around some more and still don't find anyplace that Eamon wants to eat at, so I find Amy some restrooms and we decide to return to the original pub. It turns out to be perfect. Amy stands in line to order food and pints, while Eamon, Connor and I find a little table in back. Eamon spots some tapestries on the wall and says "Hey, Dad, is that the Unicorn in the Forest?" This is one of a series of 7 tapestries we saw at Stirling Palace in Stirling, Scotland. It is indeed, upon closer examination, said same tapestry. He points at another and asks if it is The Unicorn is Killed and Brought to the Palace, which, it is not. I am still in shock that he remembered either the tapestry or the entire names. I didn't even think he was paying attention at the other castle when I explained them to him. He has a bacon sandwich, he is in love with Irish bacon already, and butter, and white bread (sigh).

1630 GMT - We do quite a bit of shopping. I find my gift for Eamon. I find a gift for Amy...it is not the best example, but with only one day left, I am getting desperate. I still haven't bought THE present that I want to get. We do find some cool presents for others though. we pick up a cooked ham and some carrot cake from the butcher and baker to use for Christmas Eve dinner. We never make it far enough down the cobblestone road through all the stores to make my original destination, Eyre Square, since the mob of people we have been in the whole way suddenly begins to grow exponentially. We surrender and run to find a place to hide. Finally, we stop at an internet cafe to post some blog updates. Unfortunately, the connection to their ONE DELL laptop, is down. This is clearly another example of why people should NOT buy Dell computers. Eamon begins his daily 4pm spinout and we are unable to enjoy anything we get from the cafe. We leave as darkness begins to fall and hit the road back to the cabin. Connor wakes up part of the way back and serenades us with cries of agony and despair for the last 20 minutes of the drive. We will miss our neighbor's dog if he ever decides to NOT guide us back up the hill.

Day 10

0900 GMT - Eamon was up early today, and Amy puts on the TV for him and we sleep in until Connor wakes us up. We have a light breakfast and take note of the rain. Plan 2 and heading to Kylemore Abbey is the choice for the day. The drive is nice and the rain is off and on. We drive through some nice areas and pass a hike to a location where St. Patrick once prayed...apparently there is a statue at the top, but it is too steep for Eamon to hike.




1130 GMT - It is a nice short trip to the abbey. It is pretty stunning, right on the water and looking quite nice.



The Benedictine Nuns of Ireland were relocated several times as Catholicism fell in and out of favor in England. When their abbey in France was destroyed by the Germans in World War I, they were able to purchase the Abbey from it's owner at the time for 45,000 pounds which they, of course had to borrow. They reopened their international girl's boarding school, with 50 boarders and 150 local day students. Their particular goal as an order has been to educate the women of Ireland. We walk the exhibit, the chapel and visit the mausoleum.






We stop for lunch in the cafe and take turns shopping in the gift store where a few choice gifts are located.

1430 GMT - We head back to the cottage by a different route. We drive along the water and note a large number of buoys in the water along the coast, and some sort of trawler. We wonder if it is fishing nets or traps of some sort, but there is no easy answer. By the time we hit the town where we turn back south, all the boys are asleep leaving Amy driving on her own.

1530 GMT - As we get back on the N59, we realize that we have no dinner, and know that our light lunch is not going to hold us over. We have a petrol station store right at the intersection, but decide to try and find some take away food in Oughterard. This turns into a nightmare, as there does not appear to be anything handy. We go into a grocery store and buy some pizzas and water as well as a few other items. We drive back to the cottage for dinner and another early evening. I still have not found the gifts I want to buy for Amy, and with only two days left until Christmas Eve....I am starting to get stressed. I don't even have anything for Eamon. We have decided to have Christmas Eve dinner and open presents on Christmas Eve since we have to be out by 10am on Christmas Day. Our trusty sheepdog herds us to the cottage once more.

Day 9

0830 GMT - Everyone sleeps in today. We decide to head out to Roundstone to hit up a music store we have read about there. It is run by Malachy Kearns who is the most famous Bodhran maker in Ireland. The Bodhran is a traditional Irish percussive instrument. It is alternately raining and sunny on the drive to the coast. We pass a sign that reads... "Abandoned Village For Sale." It forces us into a double take. Roundstone is VERY tiny, and really cute. It is right on the water, and you can see small islands and farther land masses off in the distance. We park at the music store and a full rainbow appears over the town.



Eamon's friend Gate's has asked us to bring him back a pot of gold as a Christmas present...and we think we are in luck when we find the leprechaun's house.



Alas, the doors are locked, and we will have to catch a different leprechaun if we are to get Gate's gift. The music store and some other craft shops (pottery and jewelry) are housed in an old monastery.



1230 GMT - We have a great time in the shop, and they recommend a pub in town for lunch since they are hosting a local Christmas party in the music store cafe. Lunch is nice and we note the roaring peat fire, we are definitely missing some crucial knowledge in this area. We shop in a little jewelry store next to the pub, pick up some groceries from a little store, and head back to the monastery to check out the jewelry store there. Unfortunately it is closed. We do some more shopping in the music store which is more of an excuse to use the restrooms again. I surprise Amy by driving back to the cottage. This is the first time I have driven the whole trip, except from the hotel lobby to the lodge back in Scotland. It is much less unnerving to drive these little country roads which have little to no traffic on them. I don't do too bad.

1530 GMT - We are welcomed and herded home by the neighbor's sheep dog pup. Tea time again. I think this trip may see me consume more carbohydrates in three weeks than I have in two years. We cook the chicken that Amy bought on Saturday. The boys have a blast taking a bath upstairs together. We have to turn the oil heat on long enough to warm the hot water, but shut it off after their bath to keep the heating costs down.





Tonight I have a wee dram and stay up late watching some mediocre television on TV and get plot locked on some show, which I can't even remember. Our plan for tomorrow is to go to the Aran Islands if it is nice or to Kylemore Abbey if it is raining again.

Day 8

0730 GMT - Our first morning Ireland. Eamon wakes us up and we decide to let him have some cartoons to buy us some recovery time. I get up eventually and make us a traditional Irish breakfast. I make thick slabs of back bacon, pork sausages, scrambled eggs and toast with Irish butter. The sausages are OK, the eggs are as well, but the bacon and the butter are great. Amy tries to get a peat fire going, but it pretty pitiful and generates almost no heat. After checking out the amazing scenery, we decide to take advantage of the great weather and head out to Clifden. The drive is stunning...and we spend the morning dodging renegade sheep in the road.



1130 GMT - Clifden is quite cute. We shop a bit, buying a few presents. We are feeling somewhat hungry and hop into a little pub on the corner in the center of the town. The pub is nice, and the bartender comes up with something that Eamon can eat. Eamon decides he wants something to drink partway through his meal and yells across the room..."Excuse me...do you have any lemonade?" I notice the bartender smiling and he nods while I shake my head. No one will ever accuse Eamon of being shy.





Everyone seems to have a great time.




1330 GMT - After searching through town for the quaint little internet cafe "Two Dog Cafe" that we have read about, and shopping along the way, we finally ask someone where it is. They tell us that we walked right by it, and we work our way back, continuing to pick up gifts along the way. Unfortunately, when we do locate it...(across the street from the pub where we ate lunch), we discover it closed both Sundays and Mondays. Eamon is done. We pack back into the car for the hour and a half ride back to the cottage. Both boys are asleep before we are 15 minutes on the road. Our sheepdog friend once again herds us up the home stretch.
1630 GMT - Amy continues her new tradition of holding tea time. We light a peat fire, but despite our most valiant efforts, we are still unable to get more than burning embers. Eamon watches a cartoon, we read some books and are off to bed by 2300.

Day 7

Due to the lack of inexpensive or speedy internet connectivity...I will not be posting pictures until I have a lower cost way of doing it!

0400 GMT - BEEP...BEEP...BEEP. The alarm goes off and we rush to shower and dress. I take out the last garbage and load the car while Amy wakes up the boys. We lock the lodge up and I walk the keys up to the hotel to drop it off with the night porter. The whole hotel is locked down with big wooden pull down doors at the entrances. I try calling the night porter and after 5 minutes he still doesn't answer. So much for that idea. I look all around to see where I can leave the key, but end up having to drop it on the floor in the entryway.

0505 GMT - Not too bad, we are on the road close to schedule. There is no traffic whatsoever, and the rain is not too bad. All of the petrol stations are empty, so we hope that we will have better luck closer to Glasgow. We are able to navigate to the airport successfully even without the directions that I have misplaced. We find an open petrol station just before the Erskine Bridge. We drop the rental car off in the "early returns" lot and drop the key at the drop box. We then head into the departures section to find Aer Lingus who has our next two flights. The line for the Dublin flight is incredibly long and doesn't even move for the first fifteen minutes due to some sort of problem. Finally they add more agents and the line progresses. I get stressed about the time when the agent tells us that the flight boards in five or ten minutes, so I nix the planned stop at Starbucks for coffee and food. There is a sign claiming a cafe in our gate area, and I think it is better to be closer to our gate. We go through security, and find the food store, an Irish Sandwich shop. We buy some coffee and sandwiches and while we are waiting, another passenger stops me to ask if we left a black bag at security. I count and indeed we left the diaper bag, which would have been near disastrous given that the rest of the diapers are packed and checked. I retrieve it and we head to the gate.
0745 GMT - The sandwiches are horrible. Everyone is rather cranky with me. Eamon is obsessing over a video poker machine that uses Monopoly as is gimmick. I try to explain to him why he is not allowed to play it, but he just thinks I am stopping him from playing with video game. We get early boarded by Aer Lingus, who also lets us carry the "buggy" on board. The flight is quick, only 35 minutes and we are in Dublin.

0900 GMT - We deplane and make our way to the restrooms and pick up another snack. This creates a new blast of arguing from Eamon who only wants things that the stand doesn't have. We compromise on warm ham and cheese which is satisfactory, but still not good. We wind our way through customs (there is not a soul in either the declare or the nothing to declare lines) and then through the ticketing areas and finally through another round of security. Finally we arrive at our gate. A mechanical servicing delay sets our flight back 40 minutes, so we wander around the terminal. We finally are able to board only to learn that they have put Eamon and I in an exit row, which clearly he cannot be in. We wait through the whole boarding process and finally as we begin to taxi the flight attendents move us a few rows up and on the other side of the plane. I have to say that all of AerLingus employees are outstanding...the nicest and most helpful of all the Euroupean crews that we have dealt with among Iberia, British Airways and AerLingus. We fall asleep immediately upon takeoff. I awake and end up supporting Eamon's head until we land and park at the gate.

1245 GMT - We deplane and go to retrieve our luggage. Again, customs is empty of any personnel. We go to Eroupecar and start work on organizing the rental. They decide that the car we have doesn't have a boot large enough for our luggage and bring a different car. They decide that one won't work either, so they upgrade us to a Passat and make it an automatic because they want things to be easy on us. Again, these car rental folk are by far nicer than their counterparts in Scotland. The luggage does fit, and the Passat is easier for Amy to drive, although she does hit the brake rather hard the first time she tries to shift.

1400 GMT - The countryside has been interesting thus far, but somewhat unspectacular. It is pouring rain. Connor has a bit of a screaming fit at one point, and we are trying to find a place to have some food and a brief rest. He falls back asleep before we find someplace suitable, and we decide to keep driving. Eamon then starts to complain that he is hungry, so we start looking for food again. Meanwhile, I am looking through the Frommer's Ireland 2003 book we have brought along. Amy reads a sign about Oysters and I laugh to myself, because I just read a section about the two best Oyster restaurants in this area. Suddenly Amy says, "How about this place?" I have to say yes, because it happens to be Paddy Burke's which is one of the two places I was just reading about. We stop for a bite to eat and a pint. It is nice, and quiet due to the time. We pack up and head out again.

1630 GMT - We are passing through Galway, and it is getting quite late. Even with the stop and the rain, this is taking much longer than we had anticipated based on the RCI information. All this time, Amy has been telling me that the place we are staying at is in Clifden. We don't look like we are going to get there by the 1800 cut off point, we have to be more than 2 hours from Clifden. I take a look at the directions only to find that the cottage is not anywhere near Clifden, but is only 9km from the next town. I tell Amy to stop at the next grocery she finds so that we can get some starter supplies. We find a SuperValu in Oughterard and stock up. I find a bottle of Dunphy's Irish Whiskey while picking up a 4 pack of Guinness, and given this is my Mom's maiden name, I have to buy it.



1730 GMT - We miss the sign to the cottage. The sign, of course, is after the road we have to take, and in the rain we miss it. This is despite the fact that I have just said that the turn should be any minute, and "Oh, look at those lights up on that hill." Of course, the hill was our hill, and the lights were the lights on our cottage. We find a place to U-turn and head back and over "The Quiet Man" Bridge, named for its use in the John Wayne movie of the same name.



We drive up an old, narrow road, with no lighting, in fact, we can't tell if it is even paved, except that we can see tufts of grass in the center. Suddenly and pair of glowing eyes leap in front of the car and race us up the hill. When we find the office for the Connemara Country Cottages, we discover the eyes were that of a small sheep dog pup who has herded us to the offices. We go inside to meet James our host. He welcomes us and gives us a tour of our cottage which is incredibly cute.



There are doors between every room that are to be shut to keep heat in. We have a basket of peat blocks and a bucket of coal for the fire, with a box of starter chunks (smell as though they are soaked in Kerosene).



We have to pay for the electricity (not so bad) and the oil costs (these are outrageous). The oil costs 1 euro per hour which has no mark up according to James. That is simply what he has to pay and with a raised eyebrow he notes that we can thank George W. Bush for that. We laugh and tell him that by the time he hits his state of the union address we will, between Canada, Scotland and Ireland, have spent more time out of the country since his re-election, than we have spent in it. He seems to like this answer. Ireland, unlike Great Britain, is not a supporter of the Iraq invasion and occupation. James keeps calling Eamon, Connor, which Eamon never acknowledges, and we decide to just keep quiet about. He is very sweet, but in the middle of his tour, his cell phone rings, and his wife wants to know if he is coming home for dinner. We obviously came later than he had hoped. He tells us how to work the oil heater and the sauna, and tells us that our keys will open the office if we need to use the phone which accepts coins or cards. There is no phone in our cottage, however there is a satellite television with a few hundred channels. (I check later, and though they have CNN, MSNBC, FOX News, Al Jazeera, Nickelodeon, Boomerang (Eamon cheers for that one), and a million or so football stations (that is soccer to the yanks, of course, but you knew that), there is no ESPN or NBA TV or any way to find out the score of last nights Sonics/Sun game. I am pulling my hair out in wonder. Of course, if you are reading this, than I already know the score, but without a phone or internet access, I am out of luck for the moment. We can't seem to get the peat fire to do more than embers, we must be doing something wrong.

2000 GMT - Eamon chooses to sleep downstairs in the "big" bed since he decides after a try that he doesn't want to climb the ladder to the top bunk. We read some Lemony Snicket (I read the chapter Eamon and Amy read last night on the plane from Glasgow to Dublin.) and Eamon is off to sleep. Meanwhile Amy is nursing Connor to sleep. While I am waiting for her, I scan through the available satellite stations and get plot-locked on the "reveal" episode of Joe Schmoe from Spike TV in America. What am I thinking? I wouldn't watch this show last season when it was on in the states, but here I am trapped on it in the middle of nowhere in Ireland. Perhaps I needed a little brain dead American television to equalize myself. Amy comes down, gives me a disparaging look, and proceeds to become just as plot locked. Finally it is over and I shut it off. We decide to explore Clifden tomorrow and hit the Two Dog Cafe, which I found on the web and also is in Frommers, and offers good food, coffee and INTERNET access. My wait for those Sonics scores will soon be over. We decide to crash for the evening.

Day 6

0830 GMT - It is an earlier morning, and after spending a little time online, Amy and I set Eamon up to play with some toys while we start packing. After a bit of packing we head off to Aberfoyle to do some shopping and mail some postcards. There really aren't a lot of shopping choices in Aberfoyle. I buy myself a nice sweater, and pick up some small presents for Amy. She has informed me repeatedly that this trip is her present and that I am not to buy anything "big" for her.

1300 GMT - We get caught in a downpour while shopping and hop into a pub that has a "Children Welcome" sign out front. Eamon finally gets to have a sponge pudding, though it is not a treacle sponge, it is good enough, with hot syrup and warm custard. We watch an older teenager (18 or 19) and his dad play pool and drink a few pints. In the connecting room a Christmas party starts and the bar fills with people from the party ordering drinks. A few other families with kids come in and it is quite lively. This is a bit more like I expected our vacation to be like, and we decide to try and throw a few more pub lunches like this in to our schedule.

1500 GMT - We return to the lodge to do a little more packing . Eamon gets restless so we head out to the pool. We make sure to get lots of play time in with both kids and take turns with Connor. We head back up to the pub to have a wee snack and a pint. On the way back to the lodge I make sure to check out. We have to pay for all the electricity we use, and they tell me that I should drop off the key in the morning with the night porter. We have an 8:15 flight, and the airport is about 1 1/2 hours away. We also have to fill up the car with diesel and check in for our flight, so we build some extra time in and decide to leave by 5am and be up by 4. We finish the packing and I line everything up to load the car in the morning. I head to bed by 10:30 to try and get enough sleep.

Friday, December 17, 2004

Day 5

0930 GMT - Yes. I slept in again, as did the boys. It is becoming a habit. Amy was up early. It is a BEAUTIFUL, clear day, and she has already been out for a walk and pictures. We move through the early morning motions and are ready to go. I have no sore throat this morning, I think the few "wee drams" from the Deanston single malt have cured it. Nothing like a little local folk medicine. I check the guide book and I see that our trip for the day looks like a long one...about an hour and a half at least to get there. Amy insists that it is closer...even after I show her the map. She mentioned doing a lake drive today since it is so nice, and I worry that she won't get the chance. We get in the car and she tells me she wants to take a different route. I say that's fine and renavigate via the maps.

1130 GMT - Boy did Amy make a great choice on the route. We drive up steep hills in low gear and are stunned by the views as we drive through the Queen Elizabeth National Forest in the Trossachs. This is definitely the "scenic" route. After we cross the first hills and several Lochs and hiking trails we are surprised by a small castle in the middle of nowhere on a Loch.



After a wee bit of driving we are on one of those narrow roads with a Loch on one side, separated by a stone wall, and a pasture of cows on the other, separated by a wire fence.



We make a few small stops along the way, including this little turn-off on the shore of one Loch.



1300 GMT - Connor is nearing time to nurse, so we stop in a very cute little town and pick up some meat pies and sausage rolls for a snack, and have some coffee. There is a cute older building converted into a hotel and restaurant.



1530 GMT - Despite the gorgeous scenery, and cute little towns along the way. The 1 1/2 hour trip has now taken almost 4 hours. Connor has been screaming for the last 35 minutes when we finally pull in to the distillery. Amy chose the smallest distillery in Scotland, the Edradour.



Don't be fooled by the sign. In the winter it closes at 1600, we have just made the last tour. A very nice Scottish gentleman greets us and starts us off on our own private tour. We have a taster and watch a short film. Both Amy and I agree that it is our favourite single malt yet. He then walks us around and tells us quite a bit about the process of making whiskey and the value of their particular product. They are so small that they produce as much whiskey in a year as a large distillery produces in one week. Every output from the process is reused. The liquid is used by the farmers to fertilize their crops and the solids are used to feed their cattle.



We stroll back to make some purchases at the store, where they are quite helpful in explaining the "best" choices. We pick up a bottle of the "Special" which unlike the standard whiskey is not chill filtered. If water or ice is added to it the beverage becomes quite cloudy, thus it should be consumed at room temperature.

1630 GMT - We decide to head back on the larger main A9 back to Aberfoyle, rather than take the scenic route in the dark. It only takes an hour and a half, but about 20 minutes from the hotel Connor awakes and begins to scream once more. We stop for dinner, strangely enough at the same The Lion and the Unicorn as yesterday. We head back into the car only to learn that Connor was not screaming because he was hungry, but rather, he was entirely sick of being in the car. He screams the remaining 20 minutes without pause.

2100 GMT - Connor is long since asleep, but Eamon has no interest in sleeping after his hour long nap in the car. He instead plays Arabian Knight with Amy's scarf and one of his swords bought in Stirling.



0130 GMT - I make the mistake of logging on to my work email. I spend far too long answering things I should be ignoring. I do a little work on the blog and off to sleep after a "wee dram." We are hoping to hit Edinburgh tomorrow.